Category: camera equipment reviews

Category for all reviews of camera equipment like flashes, diffusers, cases, modifiers, straps bags, battery chargers.

Skylum Luminar 2018 Jupiter review
Skylum Luminar 2018 Jupiter review

Introduction

Since my original Macphun Luminar review about two years ago, a lot has changed. Most noteworthy, the mac-only Macphun released a Windows Luminar version late last year and was rebranded to Skylum. The 2018 version also came with a lot of new features (see an overview here), making it a viable alternative for the monthly subscription based Adobe Lightroom. And if you look closely at the latest release of Lightroom, you’ll actually see unique features from Luminar (like direct LUT access) trickle back to the biggest photography software developer in the world. Not bad for a piece of software that is barely 3 years old.

There have been a few hiccups along the way, and I’ve talked to Windows users who found the first release of Luminar for Windows quite unstable. I work with an iMac, but have a virtual machine Windows version to test, and I can happily report that the latest Luminar Jupiter version also runs smoothly on Windows.

Luminar 2018 new features

The update 1.2.0 for Luminar 2018 as a free update to all current users of Luminar 2018, and includes adding Batch Processing and a Free Transform tool to the Windows version.

This update also features over 300 improvements and updates that make the app faster, more responsive and useful than ever.

The latest version, of Luminar 2018 includes .dcp support for custom camera profiles
1. 1. Speed (Performance & adjustments): We’ve dramatically increased the speed of editing across all areas of Luminar 2018.
1. 1. Automatic Lens Correction: Our RAW Develop filter analyzes your image and the metadata to calculate a one click Automatic Lens Distortion fix.
1. 1. Enhanced image quality on image view: Most of the demosaic and green equilibration issues have been fixed.
1. 1. DCP Profiles Support (for the Mac version only. Coming to Windows soon): Luminar 2018 recognizes the industry standard DCP files that you may already have on your computer (or have bought from third parties).
1. 1. Import speed (for the Mac version only. Coming to Windows soon): re-engineered RAW import, optimized for speed.
1. Windows version catches up with Mac: Added Batch processing feature, Free Transform image feature, Flip/Rotate image feature to the Windows version.
The new defringe functionality works very well to remove purple fringing.

Mac specific features:
- - Fast RAW opening;
- - Super fast image editing and adjusting;
- - Faster image export;
- - DCP Profiles support;
- - Automatic Lens Correction (fix Lens Distortion, remove Chromatic Aberration and Defringe);
- - Enhanced image quality on image view – most of the demosaic and green equilibration issues have been fixed;
- - Big number of stability fixes;
- - UI and UX improvements;
- Localisations updated (German, Japanese, Chinese & more).
Windows specific features:
- - Super fast image editing and adjusting;
- - Faster image export;
- - Batch processing feature;
- - Free transform image feature;
- - Flip/Rotate image feature;
- - Automatic Lens Correction (fix Lens Distortion, remove Chromatic Aberration and Defringe)
- - Big number of stability fixes;
- - UI and UX improvements;
- - Localisations updated;
- - Added ability to change localisation language in the application main menu;
- - Fixes with color profiles on export/in plugin mode;
- - Preview mode feature added (F hotkey);
- Enhanced image quality on image view – fixed most of demosaic and green equilibration.
Atomic Colors Preset bundle for Luminar

I’ve also made a preset bundle for Luminar called Atomic Colors. This collection of over 100 meticulously crafted color grading presets will totally change the look and feel of your images. Much like the techniques used in cinema color grading, these presets allow you to quickly and easily create different color combinations and atmospheres

Actinium

Aluminium

Americium

Antimony

Argon

Arsenic

Astatine

Barium

Berkelium

Beryllium

Bismuth

Bohrium

Boron

Brumine

Cadmium

Calcium

Californium

Carbon

Cerium

Cesium

Chlorine

Chromium

Cobalt

Copper

Curium

Dubnium

Dysprosium

Einsteinium

Erbium

Europium

Fermium

Fluorine

Francium

Gadolinium

Gallium

Germanium

Gold

Hafnium

Hassium

Helium

Holbium

Hydrogen

Indium

Iodine

Ionium

Iridium

Iron

Krypton

Lanthanum

Lawrencium

Lead

Lithium

Lutetium

Magnesium

Manganese

Medelevium

Meitnerium

Mercury

Molybdenum

Neodymium

Neon

Neptunium

Nickel

Niobium

Nitrogen

Nobelium

Osmium

Oxygen

Palladium

Phosphorus

Platinum

Plutonium

Polonium

Potassium

Praseodynium

Promethium

Protactinium

Radium

Radon

Rhenium

Rhodium

Rhutenium

Rubidium

Rutherfordium

Samarium

Scandium

Seaborgium

Selenium

Silicon

Silver

Sodium

Strontium

Sulfur

Tantalum

Technethium

Tellurium

Terbium

Thalium

Thorium

Thulium

Tin

Titanium

Tungsten

Uranium

Vanadium

Xenon

Ytterbium

Yttrium

Zinc

Zirconium

You can download these from the Macphun website here: https://skylum.com/luminar/marketplace/presets/18

Luminar 2018 Price and discount code

Luminar 3 with libraries is available from December 18th 2018. You can order now at a price of $59 for new users or upgrade from the 2017 version for $49. If you use the promo code WIMARYSPHOTOGRAPHY you’ll get an additional $10 dollar discount

Besides the special freebees package from Skylum (SmugMug portfolio pla sky overlays and voucher codes) I’m giving away my brand new preset collection called ‘Americana Black and White’ featuring ten custom made classic black and white presets for Luminar. All you have to do is send me a screenshot of your invoice with my coupon code to wimarys(at)gmail.com.
April 12, 2018
Using LUT in Lightroom
Using LUT in Lightroom

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Introduction

LUT is short for color Look Up Table and allows you to remap the colors from your camera. Every single movie you see uses this technique to achieve a unique look and feel, and it is quite different to using a ‘vintage’ preset Lightroom. Since you’re remapping all colors, and not just modifying HSL, your images retain more of a 3-dimensional look.

How to use a LUT in Lightroom

There are currently two ways to use LUT files in Adobe Lightroom.

LUT’s through the ‘Profile’ Tab (before version 7.3)

Preparing your LUT’s

The first step is to copy the LUT into the following location on your hard drive:

Users > [Your Username] > Library > ColorSync > Profiles

It’s important not to create any extra folders inside the Profiles folder.

Please note: In most cases, the library folder will be hidden. To copy files into this location you’ll first have to gain access to Library folder.

Once copied into the specified location, LUTs are ready to be accessed from within Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.

Loading LUT’s in Lightroom

You’ll notice that this is quite cumbersome to do, but it is currently the only way to use a LUT in Lightroom.

First, you’ll need to go to to the develop module in Lightroom and check the ‘soft proofing’ box below your image.

You’ll notice that on the upper right side of your screen, there is now a ‘soft proofing window below the histogram.

Inside that window, click on the profile tab, you’ll see that all the LUT’s that you put in the Lightroom Profiles folder in the first step will be there. If not, click on ‘other’ and select all the LUT’s you want to use inside Lightroom.

You can now edit your image as usual inside Lightroom.

The last step is that on export as jpeg, you’ll need to select the same LUT as color space in the File Settings tab below the JPEG option.

This is an important step, as this is how other apps will know what color space to use. If you don’t change this, your image will revert to sRGB, and the color profile will not be applied.

Most photo viewers will read this embedded color profile, but some like XEE don’t. The good thing is that when you upload to Facebook or Instagram, the right LUT will be applied.

Using LUT in Lightroom with the Lightroom Develop TAB (easiest method with Lightroom 7.3 or later))

It’s now possible to use LUT’s in Lightroom directly in the Develop Tab! You’ll first need to import your LUT (xmp) files into Lightroom. Don’t worry, it’s easy.
1. Switch to the develop tab in Lightroom. It’s easy to find on your top right hand side when you start up the application.
2. Step 2: Press the four rectangles inside the Develop tab as shown in the picture below. If you hover over it, it will say “Click to show the profile browser”. And yes click on it because we want to see the profile browser.
3. Step 3: import your LUT (xmp) files into Lightroom by clicking on the ‘plus’ sign next to the words ‘Profile Browser’ in the tab. Navigate to your LUT folder and simply import the ones you like.
Once the are imported, you’re all set to start using LUT files inside Lightroom Classic or CC. You’ll find all your imported LUT files in the same Profile Browser window of the Lightroom Develop module (Tab). Simply scroll down and see a preview of your imported LUT’s.

There is also an Amount Tab that allows you to add more or less of the Lut effect to your picture. Warning: setting this to 200% effectively means adding the same LUT twice, so be careful and use moderation.

Conclusion

The methods described here are the two ways how to use a LUT in Lightroom. If you’re on an old, pre 7.3 version of Lightroom you’ll have to use method 1 which is quite cumbersome. If however you have a newer version of Lightroom CC or classic, the second method is a lot easier and more practical.
November 4, 2017
Luminar 2018 new features overview
Luminar 2018 new features overview (updated for Luminar 3 with libraries)

Introduction

Since my review of the original Macphun Luminar earlier this year, a lot has changed. Luminar is now fully functional on both Mac and PC, so Macphun decided a name change to Skylum was in order. Besides this, the latest version of Luminar 2018 includes some interesting (some might say game-changing) new features. Luminar 2018 is now available for pre-order and will be officially released later this month. There will also be a free and big update next year which will include an all-new catalog system, placing Luminar in direct competition with Lightroom.

I’ll be going over the, for me, most interesting additions to the already excellent photo editor in this post, including tutorials on how to achieve these looks.

Sun Rays

The Sun rays module is one of these new features. It allows you to add rays of light to your image and even the sun itself if you want. Before Luminar 2018, I used a plug-in from Digital Film tools called Rays (click for review) to do this, but it’s way easier and more convincing to add rays of light using Luminar now.

Step one is importing an image into Luminar 2018, either from the standalone app or through Lightroom using the plug-in (if you can’t find it in Lightroom, Launch Luminar standalone and make sure you’ve installed the plug-in extensions for Photoshop and LR by clicking on Luminar in the menu).

Next, you should add the Sun Rays filter (Add Filter) from the ‘Creative section’. Place the sun anywhere you like in the sky. There are lots of options on how you want your rays dispersed and the size of the ball, so experiment a little with that. Now that you’ve placed your sun, you’ll need to use the layer functionality in order to brush away the layers in the shadows. Luminar has the ability to mask any layer, and the brushes are auto-sensing, so this is quite easy to do.

‘cut’ section from the Luminar 2018 layers panel with layer visible

And that is basically it, you can get quite convincing results in no time.

original image before sun rays are added

Processed image in Luminar

Matte Look

A matte look is all the rage now for wedding and portrait photography. Kudus to Luminar on adding features that photographers demand, and doing so in an easy and convenient way.

There are 7 sliders available in the Matte Look module. On top, you’ll find the usual amount slider fro 0 to 100%, great if you feel the matte effect is a bit too much and you need to dial it down. The fade slider below that more or less makes the image look more vintage, and you can add/ remove contrast and vividness too. Below these sliders, you’ll find a toning module that allows you to add a toning filter to the original image. Adding some noise from the (separate) noise module is also a good idea to add a little polish to the effect.

before the matte effect

Luminar matte effect applied.

LUT mapping

Lut mapping is my favorite new feature. It’s the easiest way to apply film looks to images using LUT’s available today. LUT is short for color Look Up Table and allows you to remap the colors from your camera. Every single movie you see uses this technique to achieve a unique look and feel, and it is quite different to using a ‘vintage’ preset Lightroom. Since you’re remapping all colors, and not just modifying HSL, your images retain more of a 3-dimensional look.

before

Teal and Orange LUT

Luminar 2018 will ship with a collection of LUT’s as a pre-order benefit, and there are plenty available for free online. If you want to go for the best ones available, have a look at lutify.me. Owner Goran makes some of the best LUT’s available ranging from Cinematic to B&W and even has a collection of looks lifted from movies. I’m mainly using his Teal & Orange collection here.

before

LUT applied

Applying LUT’s works best as a first step in your processing chain. You’ll find the LUT module in the ‘Professional’ section of the Filters Catalogue. You basically load the LUT you want, and you can add contrast and saturation. It’s always a good idea to tone down the amount and blend it back just a little with the original image.

After you’ve selected a LUT look, you can start editing your image like you normally would, adding other modules for exposure, contrast, highlights and shadows, de-hazing and so on.

before

processed using LUT

Luminar Sky AI: AI Sky Enhancer tool

A function added to Luminar in November 2018, Sky Ai or the AI sky enhancer tool automatically detects and enhances the sky in your image. This artificial intelligence is trained by means of input from hundreds of thousands of photos from many different photographers.

Birmese fisherman before Sky AI

Birmese fisherman after Sky AI

Skylum has trained a neural network to detect the sky as well as the other objects in your image. Skylum calls this semantic segmentation, basically software is taught what is sky and what is not within the context of the image. The software then automatically makes a mask of the sky, ensuring that only this part is affected.

Kyrgyzstan mountains before Sky AI

Kyrgyzstan mountains after Sky AI

After processing ,the skies are richer with detail and appear more vivid while still attaining a natural look. How much of this effect you want, depends on how much you move the slider to the right. If you feel that the slider is not giving you enough power, you can add multiple instances of the Sky AI filter module.

Kyrgyzstan landscape before

Kyrgyzstan landscape after

It’s not unlike the Dehaze effect in Adobe Lightroom, but if you like Vibrancy, Clarity, and Dehaze, this is a vast improvement due to the auto masking that speeds things up and targets the results. The auto masking feature also avoids halos and problematic edges.

Luminar 3 with libraries review

I’ve had a chance to work with the latest Luminar 3 with libraries. This interesting development means that Luminar is now a real alternative to using Adobe Lightroom in case you need the library functionality.

The new streamlined libraries interface almost looks like a slideshow preview

The inclusion of the library functionality of course means that the interface has changed slightly in order to incorporate the libraries tab. You’ll find this tab in the upper right corner next to the edit and info.
It’s also easy to navigate through your folders thanks to the albums and folder navigation menu.

Conclusion

The latest version of Skylum Luminar 3 with libraries again brings many exciting new features. I really like how Macphun (can I still say that?) seems to listen to what photographers really need and then incorporates this into their software. The best new features for me are the Sun Rays, Matte and LUT modules.

The Sun Rays module allows you to add rays of light and a sun to images in a very convincing way. Thanks to the easy masking tool, that you’ll find in all modules, it’s a breeze to add these rays to specific parts of your image. Matte makes fast work of achieving a matte look for portraits with just a few sliders, and I’m sure many wedding photographers will be very happy with this feature.

before

lutify.me LUT applied

Finally, LUT mapping is my favorite feature. It has never been so easy to apply LUT’s to your images than with Luminar 2018. Using LUT’s will give your images specific movie like looks without flattening your image (what Lightroom presets usually do).

Luminar 3 with libraries is a huge update to an already very handy and worthwhile piece of software. If you’re already using an earlier version, it is definitely worth upgrading. I’f you haven’t heard of Luminar, you should take a serious look at this very mature piece of software.

I do believe that the libraries functionality needs a bit of work. Skylum has probably been rushing to get this update out because many potential users will want to switch to Luminar before the next Adobe photography subscription cycle begins in 2019. So the code will probably need an update the get everything to work faster and more stable.

Purchase and availability

Luminar 3 with libraries is available from December 18th 2018. You can pre-order now (December 6th until the 18th) at a price of $59 for new users or upgrade from the 2017 version for $49. If you use the promo code WIMARYSPHOTOGRAPHY you’ll get an additional $10 dollar discount.

Besides the special preorder freebees package from Skylum I’m giving away my brand new preset collection called ‘Americana Black and White’ featuring ten custom made classic black and white presets for Luminar. All you have to do is send me a screenshot of your invoice with my coupon code to wimarys(at)gmail.com.
November 3, 2017
Anthropics Landscape Pro 2 review

Anthropics Landscape Pro 2 review

Introduction

Anthropics, the makers of the famous Portrait Professional retouching software are now applying their proprietary technology to new fields of photography. I reviewed the original Landscape Pro a few years ago, but they’ve recently released a new version 2.0 with lots of new features and enhancements.

To call Landscape Pro 2.0 a ‘sky replacement app’ would be an understatement as it does so much more than that. You’ll be able to change the lighting of your entire scene, add reflections to water surfaces and there are lots of other features that allow you to blend your new background better with your original image.

before

processed with landscape pro

Anthropics Landscape Pro 2 in use

The first step when using landscape pro is to select all the different parts of your image like the sky, trees, water, buildings, people, etc. This is necessary not only for sky replacement but also to be able to process your original image according to specific looks that Anthropics has designed for you.

The process of selecting these different areas is quite straightforward, and if you’re used to working with layers in photoshop, you’ll get the hang of it in no time. After you’ve made a quick selection, the software processes your image and you’ll see that Landscape pro has done most of the hard work for you.

In version 1 of Landscape Pro, it was at times difficult to get an accurate cutout, but things have greatly improved in version 2 thanks to the addition of some new selection tools.

It’s now much easier to pull or expand selected areas beyond what the software has calculated, and adding objects or trees on the skyline has vastly improved. There is now also a tool that allows you to set a reflection area in water, and also define where the reflection edge will be. Landscape pro will automatically add a reflection of your new sky to the water once you’ve decided on what background you want.

You now also have a new type of brush called a lighting brush that allows you to change the lighting of specific areas in your image. This can be helpful to make your original image blend better with your new background. Say if you have a bright sun shining on your scene, it’s best to have this reflected in your landscape or architecture too. Anthropics have also included many new skies for you to choose from including some more special ones like rainbows and Aurora Borealis.

Conclusion

Anthropics Landscape pro 2 is a major upgrade from version 1 in terms of speed, accuracy, and functionality. Thanks to the addition of new brushes and a better masking engine, it’s now easier than ever to quickly replace a dull sky. You now also have the ability to add a reflection of your replacement sky to a body of water. This, together with the new light brushes, allow for very realistic looking scenes. As always, you’ll need to carefully select a suitable sky that fits with your original photo for the best results, but you can of course also go the creative route and place your scene under a full moon, a rainbow or Aurora Borealis.

before

Landscape Pro a major improvement over version 1 and definitely worth the upgrade for existing customers. If you’re interested in changing your dull images into dramatic photos, you should definitely have a look at this app.

October 27, 2017
Digital Film Tools DFT Rays 2 review

Digital Film Tools DFT Rays 2 review

Introduction

DFT Rays is a plug-in that allows you to add realistic light ray effects to your images. This technique is known as volumetric lighting in computer graphics and can add a bit of polish and style to your photos. The beams of light are only added to highlight areas, so they have the effect of passing through objects and add a three-dimensional quality. Certain images with clouds or foliage are particularly suited for processing as you can add an extra dimension with shafts of light streaming through clouds or rays filtering through a forest canopy.

original

Edit with Rays 2.0

DFT Rays: controls

Once you open the Rays 2.0 plug-in from Lightroom or Photoshop, you’ll see your image pop up in the center area of the interface. On the right, you’ll find all the parameters that you can change using sliders. On the left, you’ll see what DFT calls the Effect Tab. This is where you’ll be able to add a mask later to change what area is affected by the rays, but we’ll get into that later.

You’ll also notice a small circle on your image. You can basically drag it around to change the location and angle of your rays. See it as a small sun, and try to get the angle and location of your rays looking as natural as possible. My next step is usually lowering the threshold slider until only the brightest areas of your image are affected. Affected means these are the points where the rays will start. It’s usually handy to switch to the rays view for this (Parameter – view – Rays), so you can see what exactly is affected.

Now that we have the Rays where we want them, it’s time to pick a more suitable color for them by using the color picker tool and selecting one of the bright spots of your image. This will make them blend better with the rest of the image and is an important step. You can also change the length and brightness of the rays, longer usually works better but this, of course, depends on your image.

If you think your ‘sun’ is too bright or too large, you can also turn this down using the ‘Light Source – Brightness and Size’ slider. Next step is the Texturize Tab.

Next step is the Texturize Tab. You’ll be able to add some texture to the rays map here, for a more natural look. If you’d like to add a degree of movement and softness, play around with the shimmer controls until you have the look that you’re after.

original

Edit with Rays 2.0

Now before setting the opacity of the rays mask, i.e. how much of the rays layer you want in your final image, we need to take a look at masking. Masking, as in Photoshop and many other photo editors, basically uses a transparency overlay which allows you to selectively mask parts of your image. White means that you’ll see the rays in that part of your image, black means that the opacity is zero, so there will be no rays visible.

By using a mask, you can selectively add your rays to the areas that would be affected in the real world, while masking out other parts in the shadows or say someone facing the camera where you’d expect the rays not to hit the front of the faces and only affect the background. DFT Rays 2.0 has many different masking options like gradient, Spot, path, snap, selection or even a basic paint brush with opacity and hardness control. I mainly use their EZ mask technology, where you can select what you want to keep or cut with a few strokes of a green and red.

EZ masking first step. Green signals keep, red signals cut. EZ Mask will then automatically compute what to keep and what to cut.

Final mask computed with EZ Mask

I mainly use their EZ mask technology, where you can select what you want to keep or cut with a few strokes of a green and red brush and let the software compute a complicated mask for you. This works as good as any other auto masking software I’ve used and gives the best final result.

Edit with Rays 2.0

When the masking is done, In order to finalize your image, go back to the Opacity slider and adjust the level of rays according to your liking.

Conclusion

If you’ve ever felt the need to add rays or shafts of light to your images, DFT Rays 2.0 is the right plug-in for you. With advanced editing options including direction, texturize and shimmer controls, you’ll be able to get realistic and stunning results in no time.

Thanks to the EZ masking technology included, it’s a breeze to selectively add these rays to your photos with minimal effort and add an extra layer of polish to your photos. Besides a standalone version, it’s also easy to use straight from Lightroom or Photoshop thanks to the plug-in extensions.

original

Edit with Rays

Rays for photos (there is also a film version) costs $50 and is available directly through their website.

October 7, 2017
Aurora HDR 2018 review

Aurora HDR 2018 review

Introduction

Macphun is a photography software developer based in California. A team of passionate photographers started the company back in 2008, exclusively making software like FX Photo Studio, Tonality, Intensify, Snapheal for Mac users. Recently though, they’ve started porting their apps to Windows, and this includes the latest installment of their HDR photo software called Aurora HDR 2018.

Now if you’re not familiar with HDR photography, there are two basic techniques that are used to achieve images with a perceived high dynamic range: tone blending and luminosity masking. These techniques have been created to overcome the dynamic range limitations of cameras, be it analog or digital, and said limitations of the desired output medium, be it paper or a modern computer screen. It all started with approximating what the human eye can see (the range from bright to dark) but has evolved into an art form by itself with the coming of modern digital sensors.

The starting point for both techniques is almost always a range of bracketed images, with each bracket aiming for a correct exposure of shadows, highlights, and in-betweens. These are then merged together to form a final image with a perfect (or at least better) perceived dynamic range. Modern sensors are often flexible enough to ‘push’ the darks and turn down the highs, but this often adds noise to those areas, and that is something modern HDR photography wants to avoid. Maximum quality and flexibility for further manipulation are crucial.

Getting back to those two techniques: luminosity masking basically cuts out the ideally exposed parts of those images and merges these together, but has the limitation of leaving you with a relatively flat or low contrast image. There are ways to counter this of course, but that is for another post. Tone mapping (what Aurora HDR is built on) actually uses the total tonal range (that is around 400 times larger than what your screen can reproduce) and will convert this in a 32 BIT environment to tonal values ranging from around 1 to 255. The goal is to reproduce the appearance of images having a higher dynamic range to display properly on standard display devices.

The algorithms that tone mapping use to scale the dynamic range down in an attempt to preserve the appearance of the original image captured by breaking the information up into two categories: global and local.

Global operators map each pixel based on its intensity and global image characteristics. The process ignores its spatial location or if it’s in a dark or light area. Using global only tends to leave you with a flat non-contrasty image after the conversion process.

Local Operators uses the location of the pixel in the image when analyzing the appropriate scaling for it. This allows each pixel of a given intensity will be mapped to a different value depending on whether it’s found in a dark or light area. Local tone mapping requires the system to look up surrounding values for every pixel mapped. This makes it slower (and more memory/system intensive) but leaves you with a much richer and eye pleasing image when correctly done.

Now back to Aurora HDR 2018. It’s probably the most complete and easiest way to make both realistic or creative tone mapping HDR’s at this moment. It’s updated regularly since the 2015 release and has continuously been updated with the latest advancements in HDR photography. Whilst other HDR applications would, for instance, necessitate you to develop RAW files first in order to correct for lens distortion, Aurora has a built-in RAW engine that does this automatically for you. Macphun has also been at the forefront intelligent enhancements with their Luminar application, so many tasks are at least partially automated and easily controllable with the sliders. An advanced masking system is also built-in, allowing you to adjust and process selected areas of your image differently. It’s also possible to denoise in the app itself, and then use layers to selectively denoise the sky for instance. There are also many presets included in the bundle for beginners, so you can quickly edit your images and find your own style.

Aurora HDR 2018 New Features

The Aurora 2018 release again brings some new and interesting features. These might not look that impressive on paper but they’re all very useful for your workflow and will allow you to do every type of edit inside Aurora instead of doing extra edits in Photoshop.

Firstly, the tone mapping engine is now faster and has been rewritten for more natural results. Whilst I was at times hesitant of making HDR’s in Aurora before because I don’t like that over processed look, it’s now way easier to get realistic and delicate looking results. Secondly, the RAW processing engine also got a haul over, and I now see no difference when developing in, say, DXO Optics Pro or directly importing a stack of images in Aurora. Linked to that, there is now also a separate lens correction tab where you can remove wide angle distortion and CA. And you can go even further than that with the upright correction tab next to it, that allows you to change perspective and straighten lines, ideal for landscapes and architecture shots made with wide angle lenses that tend to bow lines outwards.

The dodge and Burn tool is another very useful addition. Now you can darken or lighten specific regions of an image with the stroke of a brush. Aurora HDR 2018 now also allows you to edit your images in a truly nondestructive way thanks to the history tab. There, you can see all the edits you’ve made during the session and go back in time if you think you’ve overdone it at a point.

Finally, an HDR enhance slider has also been added. This is an intelligent process that analyzes your image and adds clarity, contrast, and structure selectively without bringing in too much noise and other artifacts.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a one stop HDR editor with advanced features that is also easy and fast to use, you’ll definitely find it in Aurora HDR 2018. That to a tally rewritten processing engine, you’ll be able to achieve very realistic and eye-pleasing results. RAW support has also been enhanced and now includes a separate lens correction tab to correct lens distortion and there is now also an upright correction function that allows you to make advanced upright and perspective changes, just like you can do in Photoshop or even DXO viewpoint.

The new dodge and burn tool will make your life much if you’re used to working with brushing techniques to turn down highs or bring up lows in other editors. The HDR enhancer slider is also new, and similar to the functionality in Macphuns’ Luminar intelligently analyzes your image and adds HDR magic to it. A great starting point without the need to dive into presets. The Aurora app is now truly nondestructive with the addition of a history tab.

I believe Macphun is trying to make this app really a one stop shop for your HDR editing, and with this latest version, they’ve really succeeded. Highly recommended.

Purchase and availability

Aurora HDR 2018 is available for pre-order now here and will be released at the end of September.

September 12, 2017
Flashpoint XPLOR 600 Godox AD600 review

Flashpoint XPLOR 600 Godox AD600 review

Introduction

Godox is a Chinese flash light and flash accessory manufacturer. Their products are available under the Godox name worldwide, but they are also rebranded as Flashpoint by Adorama in the US. They are pretty much at the forefront of flash photography at the moment, because of their innovative products and relatively low prices compared to the competition. These features include TTL (through the lens) metering and HSS (high-speed sync), a function particularly useful if you want to ‘freeze’ action or overpower the sun in bright daylight.

For on-location flash photography, the Wistro (in Godox terms) or XPLOR (Flashpoint) series is the one you need to look at, as these are all battery operated and quite portable. They all have a 2.4 GHz radio receiver built in and are all compatible with the X1-T or Flashpoint R2 radio remote. These radio remotes are now available for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji and Olympus cameras.

The Flashpoint XPLOR 600 (or Godox AD600B) is the most powerful off-camera flash they currently have. This 600 Watt Monolight is the most comprehensive self-contained full featured 600ws strobe that goes virtually anywhere, with wireless TTL control, High-Speed Sync, powered by its own powerful 11.1 volt Lithium Ion 8700mAh battery, capable of over 450 full power flash bursts on a single charge. The flash is fully featured, even for pro work with settings like FEC, rapid stroboscopic flash, first or second curtain sync, Just like the other XPLOR flashes, it features a USB port for upgrading firmware and new camera system compatibility (just recently the Fuji GFX was added).

There are also two optional remote heads available, the Remote 600 and 1200 (you’ll need 2 XPLOR 600’s to use the latter at 1200 Watt). These remote heads have an 8-foot extension lead that connects to the main body. It significantly reduces the weight and size of the mono light so you can safely use it outdoors in the wind on a stand or boom. The Godox AD600 (and XPLOR600) also uses the popular Bowens S mount, so you’ll be able to use all light modifiers with this connection and fit them directly on the mono light or extension heads.

Flashpoint XPLOR 600 (Godox AD600) in use

I’ve been using two AD600’s for over a year now on Sony cameras, and recently with Fuji too. The build quality is excellent, and I’ve only had one bulb burn out on me in all this time. The replacement bulbs cost around $100 (quite a bit cheaper than the competition) and it is a good idea to have a spare lying around just in case. The batteries are interchangeable of course, so I’ll always take a spare if I’m only using one flash on assignment.

For a Sony mirrorless shooter, who needs to change camera batteries quite often, the XPLOR 600 is a breath of fresh air really. I’ve never run out of power even during a full day of shooting, and often don’t bother charging the battery for the second day.

Recycle speed is quite fast and ranges from .01 to 2.5 seconds depending on the output, with a built-in cooling fan to keep the unit cool and stable. All of the system functions are displayed clearly on the LED display, and the browser system is quite easy to navigate through.

I generally use the REMOTE 600 head with an 80 cm soft beauty dish and a monopod operated by an assistant to get the light directed to where I want it.

I have my camera set up to independently use the compensation dial for exposure and flash compensation for flash power. I’ll almost always be using TTL metering to get a decent balance between natural light and flash light and modify this balance according to my preference using flash compensation and exposure compensation.

It’s the fastest way to get things done, and no, my wedding clients don’t like waiting too long for me to get things right. Once you’ve chosen your settings, it’s generally consistent with each scene you’re shooting. Using the remote head and HSS does take its toll on output power, but only slightly. You’ll still be able to overpower a bright midday sun with this setup.

Investing in the Flashpoint or Godox system has the advantage of cross brand compatibility. You’ll be able to use any of these flashes with a 2,4 GHz receiver on any modern Sony, Nikon, Canon, Fuji or Olympus camera as long as you have the right radio remote. And Godox/Flashpoint even built-in on many hotshoe flashes like the Godox TT350F or Flashpoint Zoom Li-on R2 TTL . This is particularly useful for wedding photographers who want to have the flexibility of a walk around flash and a controller for off-camera mono lights during the opening dance.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a quality, high powered off-camera portable flash that won’t break the bank, there is really no other option than the Flashpoint XPLOR 600. With at least 450 burst at full power, short recycle times, HSS and TTL compatibility and a built-in 2.4G R2 Radio Remote System, you’ll be able to overpower the sun on almost any occasion. Having said that, often the Flashpoint eVOLV 200 will get you there too, and it’s about 50% cheaper and even more portable.

As the Wistro/XPLOR system has cross-brand compatibility, you’ll be able to use any of your flashes with the 2.4 GHz receiver in five groups at a range of up to 30 meters. There is also a USB port so you’ll be able to upgrade the firmware in the future without sending it back to the manufacturer, quite interesting as Godox does at some interesting functionality yearly (like the Godox A1 smartphone app in September 2017). And yes, Flashpoint/Godox/Neewer rebranded flashes can all be updated with the same Godox firmware on their site.

The straightforward menu system and LED panel are very easy to navigate through and the entire system is quite portable, especially if you use it on location with the optional Remote 600 head. A thermostatic fan will keep the temperature of the flash unit stable, ensuring you’ll be able to use it throughout the day.

The Flashpoint XPLOR 600 also has a relatively stable color temperature of +/- 200 @ 5600k, making it stable enough for 95% of users out there. Thanks to the Bowens mount system, you’ll probably be able to use your current softboxes or at least have access to many low-cost modifiers on the market. You’ll be able to achieve many off-camera flash effects and scenarios even with one unit and the right modifier, so all in all, a highly recommended purchase.

September 6, 2017
Godox AD200 Flashpoint eVOLV 200 review

Godox AD200 Flashpoint eVOLV 200 review

Introduction

The Godox AD200 (rebranded as the Flashpoint eVOLV 200 by Adorama) is a 200Ws Cordless Lithium-ion powered TTL and HSS enabled flash with a 2.4GHz X-system radio receiver built in. It’s a dedicated off-camera flash, meaning that there is no hot-shoe mount and you’ll need a trigger like the Godox X1T to as a controller.

Godox uses a proprietary flash sync system that basically translates your camera’s protocol to their own. This means that you can use all their Wistro flashes across a wide range of camera systems if you have a compatible trigger (or on-camera flash with triggering functionality). At the moment Canon, Nikon, Sony, Olympus/Panasonic and Fuji cameras (including the GFX). The AD200 (and other Wistro flashguns) offer compatibility with both High-Speed Sync (HSS) and through-the-lens metering (TTL).

The AD200 is about 3,5 times more powerful than the largest on-camera flash systems and produces only a half stop less light than the Godox AD360, already a favourite for many wedding and location photographers. The main difference is that the battery is now integrated inside the flash body, so you won’t need to carry around that bulky battery alongside the flash anymore.

Another innovation is an interchangeable flash head, offering you the choice between bare bulb, traditional speedlite fresnel (non zoom) and even an LED for continuous lighting. There is also a Twin bracket which will combine two EVOLV 200 / Godox AD200 strobes into a single 400Ws light source. The twin bracket also has a Bowens S-type mount, quite useful if you want to use larger modifiers than their Wistro mount.

Flashpoint eVOLV 200 / Godox AD200 in use

The Flashpoint eVOLV 200 or Godox Wistro AD200 looks quite sturdy despite the all plastic build. You’ll find the radio receiver on the bottom of the unit, as well as a bright and clear LED display. Godox does not overcomplicate their menus, but it might take some time to get used to if you’re coming from another flash brand. As I mentioned earlier, the entire Godox/Flashpoint e-VOLV system is cross-compatible, so you can mix and match any of these flashes and assign them to up to five groups via the GR/CH button.

Each group can be set to any of the 32 channels if you’re having problems with flashes being triggered by other devices transmitting on the 2,4 Ghz band. You can set any of these groups to either TTL or manual for more complex flash photography by pressing the mode button. There is also a button to test fire your flash and another one to turn on the small continuous LED when the fresnel head is attached.

The eVOLV200 (and AD200) comes with both a fresnel and bare bulb head. These can simply be attached and detached by unlocking a slider and removing the head downwards. It’s quite useful to have the option of using either a fresnel or bare bulb head. For instance, I’m using the fresnel head at events like receptions alongside the Magmod modifiers.

I’ll just have the flash in my jacket pocket and use it when needed. I’ve used on-camera flashes in the best at these events, but I had two flash feet break off in the last year, so this system works a lot better for me, and I have more control over where the light falls. On the other hand, when I’m outdoors shooting portraits, I’d switch to the bare bulb alongside the small yet fantastic AD-S7 multi softbox.

An excellent choice for natural and soft light when shooting head or down-to-torso level portraits. I always have the AD200 set to HSS by the way, as it will automatically switch to normal mode when the shutter speed is below 1/128th. The flash duration with the Frensel Head is between 1/220s 1/13000s, and with Bare Bulb Head between 1/220s and 1/11300s.

The battery brick is inserted on the side of the flash and comes with it’s own charger. The battery will last you for about 500 full powered shots, I’ve never had it run out on me in all the months I’ve been using it, even when shooting all day. Recycle time is quite fast, between 0.01 – 2.1 seconds depending on the sync speed.

TTL metering is also something that many event and wedding photographers will be interested in (if you’re not using it already). This system meters both ambient and flash light through the lens a fraction of a second before it fires and calculates the right exposure as well as flash output power. I have my exposure compensation dial decoupled, so I have the advantage of balancing out ambient and flash light if needed.

Beneath the rubber slots on the side, you’ll also find a 3.5mm Sync Port if you want to use the AD200 with older flashes and a USB communication port that you can hook up to the XTR-16 / FTR-16 receivers.

Next to the power on/off button, these is a micro usb terminal that you can use for firmware upgrades. You’ll need a computer running windows to do this. I’ve been running Parallels for Mac with a limited developers licence Windows 8 and have managed to upgrade all my Godox/Flashpoint/Neewer flashes to the latest firmware without any problems.

The AD200 can be mounted via a 1/4″ 20 threaded mounting hole on either side of the flash, and there is also an adapter bracket included inside the box.

Conclusion

Godox continues to innovate in the otherwise quite boring flash photography market. The Godox AD200 or rebranded Flashpoint eVOLV 200 are the first (almost) pocketable high powered flash and if you decide to buy it, it will soon became your go-to lighting accessory. Besides having the ability to use all modern technologies like High-Speed Sync and Through-the-lens metering, it also has a large battery (at least 500 pops) and has an excellent build.

All the Godox, Flashpoint and Neewer flashes are also cross-brand compatible, and with the addition of Fuji and Olympus recently, you’ll be able to use all these off-camera flashes on any system you like. It’s also easy to upgrade the Godox/eVOLV 200 firmware via the micro USB connector, so you should be set for a few years if you decide to invest in their line-up. Did I mention that the AD200 is prices at a mere $300? You can’t even get a decent hotshoe flash from any of the name brand for that amount.

The only thing I would be worried about is your warranty, as dealing with a Chinese company directly might be problematic. So I would suggest you buying it from an official retailer in your country or Adorama in the US.

August 27, 2017
Sony A9 Gariz case review: fatal design flaw

Sony A9 Gariz case review: fatal design flaw

Introduction

Besides a screen protector, the Sony A9 and A7 series can use an extra level of protection. We’ve all seen or experienced wear and tear on the camera body corners, revealing the silver magnesium alloy body under the black paint finish. So investing in a good camera case is not an excessive luxury, it’s crucial if you want to retain the maximum retail value for the future, or are just one of those photographers who want to keep your camera in as good a state as possible.

When it comes to camera cases, South-Korean brand Gariz is as good as it gets really, and I’ve bought their cases for the A7II and Olympus EP5 in the past. The craftsmanship is always impeccable and Gariz uses an aluminium base plate (with 1/4″ tripod thread) for added protection. Gariz half-cases allow full access to all of your camera’s functions and capabilities including battery door and all ports These cases are made from the highest quality Italian leather with a soft inner lining, and always look fantastic on your camera.

Sony A9 Gariz case: the problem

Gariz recently released a half-case for the new high-end Sony A9. I ordered earlier this week and the Sony A9 Gariz arrived today. These are not the cheapest cases available, costing around 130 Euro, but I’ve always been happy with the quality of their products. And with an expensive camera like this, I seems like a wise investment.

Their products are always come in a nice box, and the the half-case itself is packaged in a linnen bag.

Installation of the Gariz half case for the Sony A9 is very easy, the 1/4″ screw lines up nicely with the A9’s thread, and all you need to do is turn the mechanism until it is securely fastened.

Sony has made some design changes to the new A9, and in order to accommodate the larger batteries, the grip is now a bit larger compared to the earlier A7 models. So there is now a bit less space between grip and your lens, but since I don’t have large hands, this never really bothered me.

Now the problem is that Gariz seem to have adapted their earlier A7 designs to the Sony A9, leaving about an extra cm space beyond the camera body. In other words, the Sony A9 Gariz case has a too loose fit around the grip, and now there is almost no more room for your right hand. It’s constantly stuck between grip and lens, very uncomfortable. And this was with the rather small SEL2470GM, there are bigger lenses out there, and it will be even more problematic with those.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a half case to protect your Sony A9, don’t buy the Gariz version. Although the build and quality of Gariz products is generally excellent, the A9 case suffers from a fatal design flaw. The spacing between the camera grip and case lining is too large, and you’ll get your hand stuck between the case and the lens constantly.

August 4, 2017
Upgrade your iMac 27” 2017 RAM with MrMemory review
Upgrade your iMac 2017 RAM with MrMemory.co.uk review

Introduction

My last iMac was about 4 years old, and was starting to crash on certain photography oriented software. With the launch of the new line of 2017 iMacs, I decided it was time to take the plunge and upgrade my system. As I mainly use my iMac for photo editing, I always go for a 27 inch model and the fastest available processor (4,2 GHz Intel Core i7). This costs more yes, but it will be fast enough to run modern software for at least a year longer, saving you money in the long run. And upgrading the processor to the i7 is actually 100 Euro cheaper with the top of the line model. The 27 inch iMac models also have the added benefit of a user upgradable RAM port. Now the standard retail version comes with only 8 GB of RAM, grossly underpowered for a machine like this if you ask me. Upgrading to 16 GB will set you back 200 Euro, 32 will cost 600 Euro and the maximum 64 GB will set you back a whopping 1400. Incredible prices, and it’s quite easy to do this yourself and save you some (at least 50%!) money.

iMac 2017 RAM specifications

When looking for suitable RAM for your iMac, it should be compatible with these specs:
- PC4-2400 (19200)
- Unbuffered
- Nonparity
- 260-pin
- 2400MHz DDR4 SDRAM
The 2017 model has 4 RAM slots, capable of holding up to 64 GB, so that’s four 16 GB modules. Since the iMac 27″ comes with only 8 GB preinstalled (two 4 GB modules), it’s advisable to add two 16 GB PC-2400 modules for a total of 40 GB of RAM. You’ll need this if you’re running applications like Photoshop and Lightroom. No Apple, 8Gb won’t cut it.

There are now three third party companies that supply RAM for the latest Macs: Crucial, Kingston and Corsair. Prices range from 120 to 200 Euro per 16 GB module, my advice is go for the cheapest available. I’ve been upgrading Mac RAM for 20 years, and I’ve never encountered any failures or problems with even the cheapest non-branded products. Crucial has Mac specific RAM, and advises against using their non-Mac RAM with the same specs, but as long as you follow Apple’s guidelines, I think you’ll be fine.

Where to buy the cheapest iMac 2017 RAM upgrade

Photographers always need to be price conscious, so on my quest to find the cheapest yet high quality RAM modules, I came across a UK based company called Mr Memory. Their DDR4 2400MHz sells for around 130 Euro and they offer free delivery throughout Europe. Since this seems to be non branded, I called their UK office and asked for some extra info. I talked to their chief operating officer Kerry Harnes and she confirmed that their cheapest modules were 100% compatible and if fact the same as sold by Crucial.

So I decided to take the plunge. Within a couple of days the RAM modules arrived in a sturdy, padded envelope. Each module is packaged separately in anti static foil/plastic bags.

The modules themselves don’t really reveal much more information, but neither do the 4 GB modules already installed in the iMac. As I mentioned earlier, as long as the specs are right, it will work. Read on to find out how to install and if everything checks out!

iMac 2017 RAM installation

Installing RAM in a 27 inch iMac 2017 is very easy.

Firstly, turn off your computer, disconnect the power cable and allow it to cool down for a while. You’ll need a large towel or something soft to protect your screen as you’ll need to place your iMac face down in order to acces the RAM terminal on the back.

You’ll notice a small recessed button on the power connector terminal. Take a pen and gently push downward.

The RAM port will open up and you’ll be able to lift the lid off.

There you go, the two pre-installed 4 GB modules are visible.

To the left and right sides of the modules, you can see two hinges. Using both hands, push them to the left and right respectively. This will release the locking mechanism and the entire bay will move upwards.

I’m adding four 16 GB modules here, so I needed to remove the factory RAM too. Gently grab one module at a time and it will slide out very easily.

Same thing applies to inserting the modules, slide them in one by one, making sure that they are securely seated. And that’s it, 64 GB installed! You need to push the 2 hinges back inward now, towards the RAM modules (resist the urge to push downward) and the port will slide back in. If you feel at any point that you have to apply lost of pressure, you’re probably doing something wrong.

Now we just need to push the lid back, make sure you have it the right way around and that it is securely closed. Now, get your iMac back on the foot, insert the power cable and start up. First startup might take some time as your computer will check the RAM. Once the system has booted, go to “About This Mac” and if all was done correctly, you should see 64 GB 2400 Mhz DD4.

You can also press the memory tab in the “About This Mac” Menu.

And finally, go to system report and then Memory for a full status check of all the modules.

Checking the Manufacturer code 0x859B, this does indeed reveal the the RAM manufacturer is Crucial.

Conclusion

If you have a 2017 27″ iMac, the standard 4 Gb RAM won’t be enough to run anything beyond the basic email and webbrowser apps. If you’re serious about photo editing and are running applications like Lightroom and Photoshop, you’ll need to add at least two 16 Gb modules for a total of 40 Gb RAM. Upgrading directly through the Mac store would set you back around 600 Euro’s, but since it is so easy to upgrade the RAM in the 27 inch model yourself, you can get 2 16 GB modules for less than half that from either Crucial, Kingston or Corsair. The cheapest retailer I have found is Mr Memory, an online store based in the UK, that sells them at around 130 euro including VAT. These come in their own packaging but are in fact from Crucial and work perfectly according to Apple specifications.
August 1, 2017